Stop 11 of 11

The Gardjola

An eye, an ear, and the best view of Valletta

Narration · 3 min

Have it read to you while you look at the thing itself, hands in pockets.

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Guide to The Gardjola

The little carved sentry box on the tip of Senglea is the Gardjola, and the view from beside it takes in the whole Grand Harbour: Fort St Angelo, the harbour mouth, and the full length of Valletta on its ridge opposite. The carvings on it are a job description.

An eye, an ear and a crane

The vedette dates from the sixteenth century, is carved from solid stone, and stands where the point commands both creeks and the entrance to the harbour. A sentry inside could see anything that came in.

Carved on it are an eye and an ear, as literal as they look, and on the seaward face a crane — a bird standing on one leg holding a stone. It is an old emblem of the watchman who must not sleep: if he does, the stone falls and wakes him.

The whole theatre from one point

Fort St Angelo stands to the right, where this walk began. Ahead are the harbour mouth and the breakwater. Across the water runs the length of Valletta, with the arcade of the Upper Barrakka about halfway along — the point from which, on the Valletta walk, you look back at exactly this spot.

Every part of that view was fought over in 1565 and bombed in 1942. Four hundred years separate the two sieges, and one motive connects them: control of this water is control of the centre of the Mediterranean.

Getting back

The ferry to Valletta leaves from the marina at the start of the route, and crosses in a few minutes. It is also the best possible way to see the harbour from the water.

What to look at

  • The carved eye, ear and crane on the Gardjola’s faces
  • Fort St Angelo, the harbour mouth and Valletta, all in one turn of the head
  • The Safe Haven Garden behind you — shade, benches and, usually, cats

Practical

Access
Ġnien il-Gardjola (Safe Haven Garden), open daily and free.
Onward
The Senglea ferry landing is a short walk down the west side, or return to Birgu for the main crossing.
Photography
Best in the morning, with the light on Valletta rather than behind it.